On the Brands
Hanna Hats of Donegal
In any hat or cap from Hanna Hats you start feeling completely different. It is just that your outlook changes. We have tested this assumption first on ourselves, and then on all out friends. When you know who, where and of what made your headgear, it uplifts you on a quite different level in ouf faceless world of globalization.
Just peer into the texture of Irish tweed. From a distance, it might seem single-colored but this is not so. In its every square centimeter there are specks of different hues. These are the colors of Irish nature, and this is traditional.
Woolen tweed fabrics for our headwear are woven to order if a number of shops located in Donegal, in the north of Ireland. They are made only from the local sheep wool of the highest quality. Before spinning, the wool is not completely defatted, so it preserves its water-resistant qualities, and holds warmth better.
All colors the yarn is dyed are taken from picturesque, fabulous and yet austere landscapes of Ireland. Our caps and hats are manufactured at a small factory of Hanna Hats in the same county of Donegal. The Hanna Hats company was established in 1924 by John Hanna, the father of the present factory head John Hanna, and initially the company made suit to order. However, after several decades of successful operation, the demand started decreasing. The manufacture of the first hat under the Hanna Hats label too four hours and a half.
Thanks to the rich experience in making clothes to order, the foundation for the tradition of Hanna Hats headgear was laid. To this day, the team attaches a great importance to trying to make every article preserve the warmth of those skillful hands that took part in its creation.
The brand founder John Batterson Stretson was born in New Jersey, in 1830. His father Stephen Stetson was a hatter, and John had used to work in his father’s shop until he went West in search of gold in Colorado mountains. While there, the legend goes, he thought of a beaver felt hat with wide brim that could be resistant to inclement weather and practical in the hard life of gold-diggers. When his expedition drew to a close, he agreed to sell his hat to a cowboy friend of his who appreciated the hat’s comfort and convenience. Apart from anything else, one could carry water in it. The future manufacture owner got five gold dollars for it.
The brand’s history starts in 1865 when John Stetson moved to Philadelphia and launched a small-scale production of quality hats. They started with models popular at the time but soon enough they decided to make the same headgear John created in Colorado mountains of beaver wool. That was how the still famous hat appeared, Boss of the Plains. Although Stetson headgear was always expensive, their popularity grew. For a cowboy, a real Stetson was a good investment for the hat was comfortable and served well for a long time, and city dwellers considered it a sign of prosperity. By the beginning of the 20th century, the Stetson factory in Philadelphia was the largest hat manufacturer in the world. They put out about two million articles a year.
The company went a long way, through the Great Depression of the 1930s, two world wars, and growth pains, but it managed to preserve the main thing, the spirit of American traditions established by brave gold-diggers of the mid-19th century.
The times change, and caps today are more popular than hats but the ones from Stetson are the same, functionally, for they are still comfortable and practical, and they emphasize their owners’ statuses.
Stetson cap silhouettes are as recognizable as their cowboy hats’. The ideally checked proportions, neat seams, and sturdy materials are their features. Many brands try to copy their models but no copy, of course, can approach the original.
Stetson today is the large international company that manufactures high-quality headwear and accessories in many countries of the world. Their best cap models are now manufactured in Czechia and Bulgaria for the entire world. They are the ones we present here.
Ye Olde Cappe
The Ye Olde Cappe brand was established specially for the Tweed Hat store. This is our name for the knitwear with history, going back to past ages.
The basic article in our range is the Monmouth cap, the British headgear popular in the 15th — 18th centuries among different social strata, from sailors and soldiers to aristocracy. The Monmouth cap is the ancestor of all modern knitted headwear.
The Ecuadorian company К. Dorfzaun was founded by German emigres who left for South America in 1938, before the World War 2 started. Rudolph Dorfzaun wore straw panamas when he still lived in his old country, being very much impressed by their beauty and quality. After moving to Ecuador, he decided to make his living on them, by launching their production and exporting. In 1944, his nephew Kurt Dorfzaun joined him, and he played the crucial part in the formation and development of the enterprise. He had been the head of the company until recent times.
All over the world, classic straw hats are called “panamas,” although they are manufactured not in Panama but in Ecuador exclusively, of the special local palm fiber called “toquilla”. The misnomer is used due to the fact that they became widely popular when the Panama Canal was being constructed, in 1904–1914. Many construction engineers wore them, as well as the US President Theodore Roosevelt who visited the grand construction site. His photographs spread all over the world, and his image added significantly to the Ecuadorian straw hats promotion.
The K. Dorfzaun brand is not widely known among customers outside of Ecuador despite the fact that the company is one of the largest manufacturers and exporters of first-grade straw hats in the country. The reason is simple. Most of their hats they make for American and European brands, like Stetson and Resistol, and only the immaculate quality remains of the initial maker, and the stamp “Hand woven in Ecuador”.
These days, the priorities for K. Dorfzaun’s operations are not only the preservation of handicraft traditions of the past and the superb quality of what they do but their social responsibility for their personnel and the environmental care.
Чешская марка Tonak имеет длинную и непростую историю, крепко связанную с историей города Новый Жицин (Nový Jičin) и самой Чехии.
Начинается она в 1799 году, когда шляпных дел мастер Йохан Непомук Хюккель (Johann Nepomuk Hückel) из города Фульнек был принят в члены Гильдии Шляпников города Новый Жицин и открыл свою первую мастерскую. Семейным предприятием она стала позднее, когда к Йохану присоединился его младший брат Августин, а настоящей мануфактурой – уже в 1848 году, под руководством сына Августина по имени Йохан Альберт Хюккель (Johann Albert Hückel). После изучения западноевропейского опыта, к 1867 году компания семьи Хюккель создала первое в Австро-Венгерской Империи шляпное производство с паровым оборудованием, самым современным на тот момент. Начиная с 1870-х годов «Шляпная фабрика сыновей Йохана Хюккеля» (Hutfabrik Johann Hückel’s Söhne Company) была одним из крупнейших европейских производителей и экспортёров шляп, со штатом около 1200 человек.
Успех Хюккелей вдохновил промышленника Антона Пешеля (Anton Peschel) также заняться шляпным делом. К 1871 году он построил в пригороде Нового Жицина свою собственную шляпную фабрику, оснащенную паровым оборудованием. Производство шляп под маркой Anton Peschel успешно продолжилось и после смерти основателя в 1885 году под руководством вначале его жены Луизы, а затем сыновей и потомков вплоть до середины XX века.
Начало XX века – период общеевропейского промышленного бума (и, конечно, всеобщего ношения шляп). В 1912 году в Новом Жицине была основана третья крупная шляпная мануфактура. Австрийская компания Böhm & Schlesinger построила на северо-востоке города две большие фабрики: одну для производства фетровых заготовок и шляп под маркой Böhm Brothers, а вторую – для изготовления шляпного промышленного оборудования. Фабрики успешно работали вплоть до 1941 года, когда были выкуплены компанией Хюккеля.
Параллельно с тремя крупными мануфактурами, в городе работали и маленькие производители шляп. Это продолжение традиции – ведь в Новом Жицине делали головные уборы еще со времён позднего Средневековья (первое упоминание профессионального шляпника в городской учетной книге – 1506 год), а Гильдия Шляпников была официально зарегистрирована бургомистром в 1630 году.
После окончания Второй Мировой войны, Чехословакия оказалась в зоне влияния СССР. К 1945 году в Новом Жицине действовало 21 шляпное производство (как крупные фабрики, так и небольшие мастерские), и это не вполне соответствовало принципам социалистической экономики. Кроме того, значительная часть руководителей компаний были смещены после изгнания нацистов из Чехословакии, в связи с чем возникли и серьёзные управленческие трудности. Руководством Чехословацкой Республики было принято решение о национализации и слиянии всех шляпных производителей Нового Жицина в государственное предприятие TONAK. Название является аббревиатурой: TOvárna NA Klobouky, что переводится с чешского просто: «Шляпная фабрика».
Во второй половине XX века шляпы с нового объединенного предприятия продолжили экспортироваться в 53 страны мира как под новым брендом Tonak, так и под уже известной в Европе маркой Hückel. Шляпы Tonak ограниченно поставлялись и в СССР, где их ценили за высокое качество фетра и изящество изготовления.
После «Бархатной революции» и завершения коммунистического периода истории Чехии, компания Tonak была преобразована в акционерное общество и продолжила 200-летнюю традицию шляпного производства в Новом Жицине.
Сегодня Tonak – один из крупнейших в Европе производителей готовых шляп и высококачественного пухового шляпного фетра (furfelt) из меха кролика, козы и бобра, смешиваемых в особом соотношении. Фабрика делает шляпы как под своим брендом, так и для других марок. Из фетра Tonak создаются коллекции шляп Chanel и Dior. Лучшие фетровые шляпы для Stetson Europe производит именно фабрика Tonak.
McNutt of Donegal
McNutt of Donegal – крохотная семейная компания, более 60 лет создающая первоклассные шерстяные шарфы, шали и пледы на собственном маленьком производстве на берегу Атлантического океана, в деревне Даунингс (Downings), на севере графства Донегол. Официально их адрес выглядит еще более живописно: The Pier (Пирс), Downings, Co.Donegal, Ireland.
У McNutt of Donegal получается, находясь буквально на краю земли, создавать шарфы исключительного качества с небанальным и лаконичным дизайном. Цвета и фактуры шерсти впитали уникальную природу ирландского западного побережья. Яркие оттенки сочетаются здесь с приглушёнными цветами земли и камня, находя отражение в переплетении шерстяных нитей шарфов. Они выглядят актуальными и уместными как на главных улицах крупнейших городов мира, так и на природе. Вещи создаются с душой, с искренним желанием изготовить то, что будет радовать покупателя много лет. Это полностью совпадает с мировоззрением Tweed Hat, поэтому, познакомившись с ними на выставке в Дублине, мы сразу поняли: McNutt of Donegal должны быть представлены в нашем магазине.
Руководит производством с 1992 года Уильям МакНатт (William McNutt), продолжатель семейного дела. Употребляя в начале этого текста слово «крохотная», мы не преувеличивали. Весь коллектив состоит из 11 человек, включая Уильяма.
The history of the Magee 1866 brand goes back to the Victorian time when John Magee took up trading in Donegal tweed while travelling around the fairs in Donegal County and buying fabrics from local manufacturers. At that time, weavers often combined their fabrics creation with other professional activities, like fishing or farming. By 1871, John had already opened his own drapers shop in Donegal, and 16 years later his young cousin Robert Temple joined him as an apprentice. He impressed John with his skills of trade by successfully selling three caught woodcocks to a hotel owner in Ballybofey.
In 1901, Robert Temple became the Magee shop’s co-owner, and nine years later he purchased the business from its founder. He struck deals with weavers who started to make fabrics designed by him, exclusively for Magee. In the World War 1, the demand for Irish wool fabrics skyrocketed for they were ideal for uniforms, being warm, dense, and sturdy. Yet by the end of the war, due to the same high demand, the home weavers’ quality of manufacturing decreased. In 1918, Robert Temple decided to establish his own weaving mill in Donegal, on the Eske river, in order to control the quality and all nuances of his production.
After the War of Independence started (1919–1921), there appeared a border between Ireland and Northern Ireland that became a hindrance to the normal trade. Robert Temple realized that there is no way of breaking long-established economic relations, so he opened his warehouse in Belfast, the largest city of Northern Ireland. This allowed him continuing to sell fabrics b oth in Ireland and England.
In 1931, Howard Temple, Robert Temple’s son, started working for the company at 17.
In the 19th and the first half of the 20th century, the principal buyers of fabrics were the city dwellers who ordered their clothes from bespoke tailors, and the tailors themselves. After the World War 2, the British Isles saw the massive spreading of the factory-made mass-marketed ready-made clothes. It was easy to explain, for those production facilities that had manufactured uniforms in the years of war converted to making civilian clothes. People stopped ordering their suits, preferring to buy them quickly in stores. In 1945, Magee took the challenge of the changing times, and they launched the prêt-à-porter production in Belfast, creating unusual and bright articles of Donegal tweeds, as opposed to ubiquitous gray suits. In 1960, they launched their own clothes manufacturing in Donegal as well.
In 1961, two world-renown Irish fashion designers, Sybil Connolly and Irene Gilbert, told the whole wide world of the Donegal tweed by including clothes made of it in their ladies’ collections. And the very next year, Magee created their green tweed for the uniform of the largest Irish air company Aer Lingus.
In 1974, Howard’s son and Robert’s grandson Lynn Temple starts working for the company. He is currently the head of Magee of Donegal. Preserving the name of John Magee, the founding father of the company, in the company’s name, the Temple family has been running the brand successfully for over 100 years. They have come through the hardest years of the first half of the 20th century, and are continuing their regular and harmonious development. In 2016, Magee of Donegal celebrated their 150th anniversary by opening their flagship store in downtown Dublin.
Today, the brand manufactures a large variety of classic men and women’s clothing of the highest quality, made of first-grade natural materials. The Magee Weaving enterprise is also in operation that manufactures and sells tweeds.
Kerry Woollen Mills
The Kerry Woolen Mills factory is located in the West part of Ireland, in the village of Beaufort, Kerry County, and may serve as a wonderful example of the force of traditions, and the link between generations. The official establishment date is 1760 although the first woolen mill appeared here as early as the 17th century.
The factory deals in the complete cycle of the local sheep wool, from carding, spinning and dying the yarn to weaving and knitting the final article.
In 1904, the Eadie family purchased the business, and today it is owned and run by its fourth generation, Robert Eadie and his sons.
Maintaining the tradition and operating in the same location as they did 300 years ago, the masters here create the real living heritage of the Irish culture with their own hands.
Lee Valley Ireland
The history of the Lee Valley Ireland brand started in the 1980s when Denis Hurley thought of sewing flannel shirts in an old style, similar to those worn by his own grandfather. After having designed the cut and selected right materials, he started manufacturing first batches at home, and went around the fair circuit in nearby towns to sell his shirts to both tourists and local farmers.
When he saw the demand for comfortable and beautiful granddad’s shirts, he launched the manufacturing facility in 1986, in his native village of Inchigeela, Cork County, by converting the old abandoned dairy. The manufacture is still located in this village. Localizing the production in his native country is the matter of principle for Denis Hurley who runs the company even now.
The company is named after the river Lee that flows throughout the entire Cork County.
At present, the small factory manufactures various clothes in the traditional Irish style but their highlight are still those flannel grandfather’s shirts as well as nightshirts and pajamas distributed by Lee Valley all over the world. Those are the articles we have decided to represent in Tweed Hat.
Hatman of Ireland
Hatman of Ireland is a small family business located in the West of Ireland, in Galway County. It was established by Gerry Moran in 2003, in order to manufacture high-quality accessories, headwear, and clothes of authentic local materials.
Before establishing his own brand, Gerry had spent many years working in headgear manufacturing. This is where the name of the company came from. Hatman of Ireland does not attempt to hitch on fashionable trends, by churning out one collection after another. They produce classic objects made of traditional materials, like Donegal tweed, linen, or waxed cotton, that will never become obsolete for they are for all times.
Кузнецов & Якунина
The Kuznetsov & Yakunina leatherworking shop was launched in 2013 in Moscow by Ilya Kuznetsov and Yekaterina Yakunina. The concept was formed from the very beginning. They were not going to chase fads by creating collections one by one. Instead, they were going to make objects for years, the things out of time. They started making knapsacks and accessories of the highest grade materials, according to traditional methods and technologies.
For Ilya and Katya, the inspiration lay in working and military satchels of the first half of the 20th century. Rethinking and adapting historic models for modern urban dwellers, the masters create minimalistic, functional, quality and very beautiful things that would serve for decades.
SOHA is a conceptual brand of household and kitchen utensils created in 2015 by artist Denis Milovanov and producer Alisa Burmistrova. Inspired by the aesthetics of the Russian North’s traditional architecture and way of life, their objects may be placed on the border of industrial design and modern art.
The SOHA Concept works have been warmly received by connoisseurs of contemporary object design all over the world, at Paris shows Maison & Objet in 2015 and 2016, as well as the Milan Design Week in 2017.
In our store, there are presented the SOHA Concept’s smaller items, the oak serving boards cut with a motor saw and boiled in vegetable oil for three days and nights.
Fisherman out of Ireland
Fisherman out of Ireland is an Irish brand of knitwear from the village of Kilcar, Donegal County. This is a wonderful example of an authentic local production inspired by the local austere nature and coastline traditions. The village population is about 250, and a little over 20 people work there, yet they take orders from all over the world, for 70% of their output are exported.
The Fisherman out of Ireland’s articles are at the same time delicate, for the yarn used usually has a large proportion of soft fibers, and durable, for they are created by people who know how to make a real fisherman’s knitted sweater usually worn in high seas.
In our range of products there is a traditional Irish knitted hood, a styling headwear for both men and women that can replace both a hat and a scarf.
The Stormy Kromer brand history was launched in 1903 when George Kromer nicknamed “Stormy” asked his wife Ida to make a warm cap for him that a winter wind could not tear off his head. For many years, George was a railroad engineer, and this was an acute problem for him. When an engine moved fast, strong gusts of wind carried his headgear away quite frequently. George also played baseball semi-professionally, so the basis for this cap’s cut became a classic baseball cap, but with the visor shortened, to reduce its windage. In order to perform this task, Ida thought of an original construction for earflaps. If necessary, they needed only one flick of a hand to become lowered and provide additional warmth, wind resistance, and protection of inclement weather conditions.
The cap turned out so fortunate that most George’s colleagues wanted one for themselves. Ida received many orders. The popularity of a beautiful and convenient cap spread across America, and a number of made caps increased. By 1909, the Kromer family had their own small manufacture, and opened their first store in Kaukauna, Wisconsin. Then, up until 1945, the small company had continued to grow. They moved to larger premises twice, and had up to 30 people employed in the production. By 1955, the demand for railroad industry articles started to decrease, and the Kromers introduced new caps made of waxed cotton that were meant for working people as well, like welders and pipeliners. Their sales went up again.
In 1965, George Kromer transferred the company management to Richard Grossman, due to his age and health problems. After that, the company went into a slow decline, and their production dwindled. In 2001, the information went out that the company Stormy Kromer Mercantile will shut down. A great fan of the brand, the businessman named Bob Jacquart learned about it, and he cared so in a month the production lines were moved from Milwaukee to Ironwood, Michigan, to a textile manufacture owned by Bob. That was the beginning of a new stage in the Stormy Kromer brand’s history. The company started developing new models of headwear, clothes, accessories, and bags. At the back of their caps the stitching appeared, with George Kromer’s signature and the foundation year, 1903. At present all the manufacturing is still based in Ironwood, so the authenticity and quality of their articles are still very high.
These days, the Stormy Kromer headgear is the comfortable, quality, beautiful and original articles with history that attract both active leisure buffs and city dwellers who wish to wear nice-looking, practical and warm caps.
The preferred materials are traditional and natural ones, like wool, flannel, and waxed cotton. The company is so sure of the quality of their caps that they offer a lifelong warranty for them, applicable only if they are used properly, of course. Every cap has its own unique number that can be registered with the company’s official website.
The Stormy Kromer cap design cannot be mixed with anything else for it has become a true American legend.
The Engineer Garin brand emerged in Moscow in 2011, and gained its popularity by their high-quality ties and bow ties that were far from being banal.
In later years, their range widened to include their contemporary reimagined versions of classic headwear, like hats, eight-piece caps, and porkpie hats. All their articles are manufactured in small batches in a cozy shop in downtown Moscow, under the personal control of Sergey Malykhin, the founder of the brand.
The Hatfield hat brand appeared in St. Petersburg in 2016. Using quality materials, employing handicraft, and paying special attention to details and nuances, the tem of likeminded people create a quality product proudly wearing the label “Made in Russia”. Based on classic forms, Hatfield puts the hat into its contemporary context without losing its connection to the tradition.
Union of Friends
The Union of Friends brand emerged in Kiev in 2016 when two best friends, Vlad and Bogdan, the long-standing aficionados of design and clothes making of quality denim and canvas, decided to go professional.
The source of inspiration for those two masters was the American and European working and hunting clothes of the second half of the 19th century and the first half of the 20th century. They manage harmoniously to combine historic detail and technologies with their own elements of design that look like they were invented 100 years ago and not in our days.
The close attention is paid to materials, including Japanese denim, American canvas, Japanese brass and copper fittings, as well as to the details of trimming, technologies, and quality of seams. All their articles the two friends make with their own hands in their own shop.
The Union of Friends is a member of the unofficial union called the Post-Soviet Denim Camp, together with brands Firmament, Red Hills, and Headges.